Thursday, September 10, 2009

Spectra & "Tech Cords" versus Old-School Nylon

Important information about Spectra and other high-tech cords--things are not as they seem. If you use any of these small-diameter, high strength materials in your climbing practice, this is must-read information:

Use & Abuse of the Clove Hitch

The AMGA, with the help of Blue Water Ropes, has done some excellent research on the use of the clove hitch:

Thursday, September 3, 2009

Beginners & the Gri-Gri - from the AMGA

From the Summer 2009 issue of Mountain Bulletin, the quarterly newsletter of the American Mountain Guides Association:

"Put [the Gri-Gri] in the hands of a lighter, less experienced belayer, add a pair of gloves and you have a recipe for pushing hard on a rock climb with a high level of confidence that you will not be dropped."
--Rob Hess, AMGA Technical Director

This is a surprisingly strong endorsement of the Gri-Gri for use with beginners.