Friday, November 11, 2011
Tyrolean Traverse
›
My preferred set-up for a tyrolean traverse includes: -Petzl Tandem Pulley on the bottom -Petzl Mini Traxion on top, for progress capture Fo...
Top Rope Soloing
›
My preferred device for top-rope solo climbing is the Petzl Mini Traxion, used with an anti-cross-loading carabiner : Here is my basic ancho...
Friday, July 2, 2010
Dyneema & Nylon Drop Tests
›
Jaw-dropping tests results and outstanding analysis from the folks at DMM: Dyneema & Nylon Drop Tests The take-home is that climbers nee...
Wednesday, April 21, 2010
What is a BHK?
›
The BHK , or "Big Honkin' Knot," is a simple way to make a redundant Masterpoint using two arms of an anchor cord. I have see...
Friday, April 9, 2010
The J-Tree $Money$ Anchor
›
It is currently high season in Joshua Tree, and I have been getting lots of inquiries about the best way to build top-rope anchors in the Pa...
Thursday, September 10, 2009
Spectra & "Tech Cords" versus Old-School Nylon
›
Important information about Spectra and other high-tech cords--things are not as they seem. If you use any of these small-diameter, high st...
Use & Abuse of the Clove Hitch
›
The AMGA, with the help of Blue Water Ropes, has done some excellent research on the use of the clove hitch: Use and Abuse of the Clove Hitc...
Thursday, September 3, 2009
Beginners & the Gri-Gri - from the AMGA
›
From the Summer 2009 issue of Mountain Bulletin , the quarterly newsletter of the American Mountain Guides Association: "Put [the Gri-G...
Tuesday, July 7, 2009
Lead Belay with Gri-Gri & Cinch
›
Gri-Gri s have been a common sight at local crags for many years. The "auto-locking" characteristic of the device offers an excel...
Wednesday, July 1, 2009
No Such Thing as a "Beginner's Belay Device"
›
I often hear climbers (including some guides and climbing gym owners) criticize mechanical-assist belay devices such as the Petzl Gri-Gri a...
›
Home
View web version