Earthworks Climbing School
Friday, November 11, 2011

Tyrolean Traverse

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My preferred set-up for a tyrolean traverse includes: -Petzl Tandem Pulley on the bottom -Petzl Mini Traxion on top, for progress capture Fo...

Top Rope Soloing

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My preferred device for top-rope solo climbing is the Petzl Mini Traxion, used with an anti-cross-loading carabiner : Here is my basic ancho...
Friday, July 2, 2010

Dyneema & Nylon Drop Tests

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Jaw-dropping tests results and outstanding analysis from the folks at DMM: Dyneema & Nylon Drop Tests The take-home is that climbers nee...
Wednesday, April 21, 2010

What is a BHK?

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The BHK , or "Big Honkin' Knot," is a simple way to make a redundant Masterpoint using two arms of an anchor cord. I have see...
Friday, April 9, 2010

The J-Tree $Money$ Anchor

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It is currently high season in Joshua Tree, and I have been getting lots of inquiries about the best way to build top-rope anchors in the Pa...
Thursday, September 10, 2009

Spectra & "Tech Cords" versus Old-School Nylon

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Important information about Spectra and other high-tech cords--things are not as they seem. If you use any of these small-diameter, high st...

Use & Abuse of the Clove Hitch

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The AMGA, with the help of Blue Water Ropes, has done some excellent research on the use of the clove hitch: Use and Abuse of the Clove Hitc...
Thursday, September 3, 2009

Beginners & the Gri-Gri - from the AMGA

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From the Summer 2009 issue of Mountain Bulletin , the quarterly newsletter of the American Mountain Guides Association: "Put [the Gri-G...
Tuesday, July 7, 2009

Lead Belay with Gri-Gri & Cinch

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Gri-Gri s have been a common sight at local crags for many years. The "auto-locking" characteristic of the device offers an excel...
Wednesday, July 1, 2009

No Such Thing as a "Beginner's Belay Device"

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I often hear climbers (including some guides and climbing gym owners) criticize mechanical-assist belay devices such as the Petzl Gri-Gri a...
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Bio

Matthew Fienup
Ventura, California
Matthew is a full-time professional climbing guide with more than 12 years of experience and the owner of Earthworks Climbing School. Matthew is a certified-member of the American Mountain Guides Association and the Professional Climbing Instructors Association. Matthew's other specialties include California Natural History, telemark skiing, gourmet coffee, and backyard astronomy.
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