When I give anchor clinics at Gear Shops and Climbing Gyms, I always get the very logical question:
If bolts are so unreliable, why aren't bolts failing left and right?
A single crag in Santa Barbara has actually had two different bolts pull out during lead falls (most recently in Summer 2007). Both cases involved 5-piece Rawls, which are considered better than most other bolts in softer rocks.
Matthew is a full-time professional climbing guide with more than 12 years of experience and the owner of Earthworks Climbing School. Matthew is a certified-member of the American Mountain Guides Association and the Professional Climbing Instructors Association. Matthew's other specialties include California Natural History, telemark skiing, gourmet coffee, and backyard astronomy.