When I give anchor clinics at Gear Shops and Climbing Gyms, I always get the very logical question:
- If bolts are so unreliable, why aren't bolts failing left and right?
A single crag in Santa Barbara has actually had two different bolts pull out during lead falls (most recently in
Summer 2007). Both cases involved 5-piece Rawls, which are considered better than most other bolts in softer rocks.
And then this in Australia:
bolt failure in the Blue Mountains